The Effects of an Overweight Horse

Obesity causes many problems, including a shortened life span, as a result of the following factors: Digestive disorders, such as low-grade chronic colic, are more likely, disrupting the delicate balance of gut bacteria.

Studies on other species show that cancer is more common in obese animals. There is a posssibility that this is also true of equines.

Respiratory problems are common as the additional body mass of the horse requires extra levels of oxygen. Due to pressure from this excess body weight, the required oxygen intake is difficult for the horse to achieve.

The fat horse finds it difficult to cool down during work due to the extra insulation of sub-cutaneous fat. He will compensate by sweating excessively which can lead to dehydration and potential tying-up.

Excess body weight causes strain on the joints. This is a particular problem with young, growing show horses and can cause not only irreversible lameness and deformities, but also other problems such as laminitis.

Heart and circulatory problems arise as the demand for blood is increased, making the cardiovascular system work harder.

Other Effects of Obesity Include A decrease in physical energy and activity. When an animal is obese, the time until it becomes fatigued is measurably shortened, again, due to the inability of the body to cool quickly. Lethargy is a much more common complaint with overweight horses.

Lower performance levels. Peak fitness is impossible to achieve in an overweight horse as aerobic activity (work with the use of oxygen) is decreased.

Reduced resistance to infectious disease. The body of an obese horse cannot always produce adequate antibodies to form an effcient resistance against disease.

Reduced milk production and a poorer quality of milk in lactating mares.

What Should You Feed Your Horse

When working out your horse's diet, think about those feedstuffs which will put weight on him and those which will help keep him trim and healthy. Follow these guidelines:


DONT FEED
Highly molassed products. These are very "moreish" and will encourage your horse to eat to excess.

Products containing oils, such as some high-performance feeds, conditioning feeds and showing products. Oil is highly calorific, and, as it is digested and absorbed well, it will mean your horse puts on weight very quickly.

Early cut hay. This is very digestible and easily absorbed.

Spring and early summer grass.

Mixed feeds. These tend to contain higher levels of molasses than cubes and are more palatable.


DO FEED
Fibre, fibre and more fibre. If possible, replace all concentrates with fibre products, such as high-fibre cubes of chaffs. These are not necessarily low in energy (particularly the alfalfa products) and they take longer to eat than mixes or cubes. This extra time will help to occupy the horse, preventing boredom.

Suitable products for the work level of your horse. If you are feeding a low-energy product and your horse is lazy, do not increase the levels you are feeding. By doing so, you will only encourage weight gain, instead try changing to a higher energy feed and, if necessary, reduce the amount you are giving him.

Products designed specifcally for the overweight horse. These are ideal as they are designed to be fed in small quantities, yet have optimum levels of minerals and vitamins.

Weighing Your Horse

Firstly, invest in a weigh tape, which can be bought from feed merchant stores or feed companies. Most are extremely accurate.

Weigh your horse at a set time every week and record his weight over several weeks in order to determine any trend in weight gain or loss.

You should critically assess your horse by eye at the same time as weighing. Try to be objective, avoid admiration!.

Working out a condition score on a weekly basis is also essential. Use a hands on approach to feel the areas where fat is more likely to be deposited, for example, the crest, shoulders, ribs and quarters. Give each area a score out of five, in areas where he is fatter, the horse wins higher scores and vise versa. Record the final marks together with his weight.

Many feed companies now own weigh bridges and will come out to a riding club or agistment centre to weigh horses and assess their diets. This is a useful exercise but be aware, although the advice may be independent, any feeding receommendations are likely to be biased towards that particular company!.

Dealing With Spring Grass

Once summer arrives, avoid starving your horse by day and then turning him out at night. You will be in danger of causing digestive upset as he will rest in daytime and eat to excess by night. Instead, take preventative measures as the spring grass comes through and limit the amount available to your horse.

If you know a local livestock farmer, ask him whether you can borrow sheep or cattle to eat off the excess grass in your paddocks.

Not only will these animals help to clear away weeds but grazing them on your land will reduce the grass intake of your own horse.

Use a starvation patch or strip your paddock with the help of an electric fence. If you do this, remember to tie plastic strips to the fencing to keep it visible, or use fencing tape.

As the grass is eaten down, gradually move the fence posts outwards.

Remove droppings daily to prevent souring of the grass and also to avoid a potential worm burden.

If you opt for one of the above methods, remember that the grass is still growing and even if the ground looks sparse, your horse will still be gaining a good level of nutrition.

In severe cases, you could try using a bucket muzzle, which has holes at the base to allow the horse to drink and to nibble at grass. Take advice on fitting one as they can be removed by other ponies, or lost on gate posts, unless properly fitted.

If you do use a bucket muzzle, you will need to stable the horse for a period of time with limited hay, as it is not recommended to leave one on for 24 hours at a time. This will restrict his intake significantly.

Having said that, you should restrict your horse to the stable or yard for a stretch of 24 hours only as a last resort.

A stabled horse cannot exercise and boredom will set in, possibly leading to sterotypic behaviour. If you do stable him, buy or make stable toys to help keep him stimulated and feed hay in a small holed haynet to help it last.



As longer days and more pleasant weather begins to set in, you can give your horse more exercise. Remember, you will need to work up to these new increased levels as imposing a strict exercise regime on an unfit horse will do more harm than good.

Finally, ask yourself whether it is really necessary to feed your four-legged friend any concentrate at all, as most horses will work perfectly well on a low-energy fibre diet, and the horse has only limited access to grass, a mineral and vitamin supplement will then be a necessary top-up requirement.